Grazing the Smorgasburg

New York’s street food scene is growing new stalls and trucks overnight. And at a place like the Smorgasburg, I wish I had four stomachs. But that didn’t stop me from grazing. The creators of Brooklyn Flea have spun off a new market in Williamsburg, this time ditching the fleas for a food-only market. Filling a patch of waterfront off North 6th street, the market scores a free, built-in crowd with disposable income thanks to being overlooked by luxury condo towers.

About fifty vendors turned up yesterday. The likes of Brooklyn Oyster Party, Solber Pupusas, and Flour City Pasta joined many others, including several pickle vendors and a wine tasting tent by Treleaven. Moneyed hipsters carrying yorkies navigated lines for teriyaki balls and lobster rolls. A few greenmarket stands selling microgreens and strawberries rounded out the gluttony.

Between rounds of grazing, I remembered to take a few pictures:


One of several beef jerky vendors at the market, Kings County Beef Jerky carries flavors that ranked higher than some jerkies I’ve had in Texas, thanks to the thin slices, making them easier to chew. And no gristle.


Hudson Valley Duck Farm’s persuasive simplicity.


Just a few steps down from a tent selling easily forgettable fish tacos and bland, sauce-free carnitas, my luck improved at Solber Pupusas. Their line moved surprisingly fast. The pupusas came out a little crispy, while the fillings remained chewy. The toppings of sour cream, tomato sauce, and curtido made a delightfully tasty mess of the pupusas.


Mimi and Coco’s booth sold sauce-laden teriyaki balls. Moist, sweet, creamy and gooey. That should cover it.

Red Hook Lobster was moving lobster rolls left and right. Thankfully, they also have a truck roving the culinary wasteland that is midtown, Manhattan.


Is this a clever name or misleading advertising? You won’t find any kumquats in the baked goods of Kumquat Cupcakery. Their one-bite cupcakes (orange poppyseed and chocolate with salted caramel) were fresh and rich, although overpriced at $2 a pop. Then again, the condo dwellers above the market should have no trouble ponying up that kind of culinary cash.

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About OmnivorousTraveler

Darrin DuFord is a travel writer, mapgazer, and jungle rodent connoisseur. His writing has won numerous awards and has appeared in The San Francisco Chronicle, BBC Travel, Gastronomica, Roads & Kingdoms, Narratively, and Perceptive Travel, among other publications. He is the author of Breakfast for Alligators: Quests, Showdowns and Revelations in the Americas (released in July 2016) and Is There a Hole in the Boat? Tales of Travel in Panama without a Car, silver medalist in the 2007 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Awards.
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